leaving Romania with a bad stomach

Don't try this at home...

I'm in Iasi close to the Moldowan border. Yesterday I was puking along the highway. I don't really know what was taking its toll there, sure it left me with no real strengh and the need to slow things down a bit.

check out the new fotos from the Romanian countryside, the old ones you can find here (be aware that it starts with the most actual picture)

Day18 (28.8.)

After taking it all back to Rhegin I found out that it was sunday and that I would have to Spend those 20 EUR on a hotel rrom no matter what. I spend the whole day (17) watching TV and checking out downtown Rhegin wich is something that can be done in 30min.

The morning after it was already 12:30. Last night they showed Twin Peaks, but only starting at 2am. After leaving the hotel and buying that new "kautshuk" it was already 2pm. It sonn became claer that this was to be a real backroad. Bumpy cobblestone roads in the villages and disintegrating tarmac from the Breshnev era in the woods. It really reminded my of Georgia...

Upon reaching Lapusna, the aim for that day, it had already begun to rain. Thats when I saw the only building with lights on and peaople inside staring outside at me. I took my chances and asked if I could put up my tent in the backyard. I fiddled with the tent and asked for water and soon got invited to come inside. From that on the oldest of what turned out to be real Romanian Lumberjacks made it clear that I could stay inside and ordered me to get my luggage and bike inside aswell. Although there was somewhat of a language barrier we got along well and had a nice evening with very orginal food and all. The interior design was a real classic. Playboy calendars alongside with Husquarna pin-up girls holding up those chainsaws in a real sexy way.

I was told that the former state datcha of Ceaucescu was on the other side of the road and that back in the olden day he used to take his German business friends for a hunt from time to time.

Day19 (29.8.)

I took of at 9am and was told that the road ahead was a real "drum foristei" a forest road an d that I should just stick close to the river in order to keep on the right track. After 2km I was hailed and stopped immediately by a funny bunch of guys who turned out to be the lower cast in the hirarchy of Romanian Lumberjacks. They only had a little shack to sleep in and weren't really focussed on getting up and to work that morning. In fact most of them were really drunk and that was probably the reason for the whole extravaganza that followed. I had to drink of their moonshine, horses where dragged onto the scenery and jolly pictures where taken. In the end I managed to get of without paying for the wonderful pictures that had been staged, horses n all.

The next 15 or so kms where bumpy and uphill. But upon reaching the sumit I knew that the rest of the day would only be downhill. What a pleasure...

Things turned out differently somehow. After a few kms that took me out of the mountains I could see that the next 5 kms would be more of an ordeal than a nice ride down the valley. It was'nt just muddy the whole road was torn apart by the carterpillars that where usually driving on it and all soggy from the rain the night before. I fell of my bike twice and had to push it several times. At one time that kept me from drowning in a real swamp that consisted of a ditch filled up with sawdust and water. All alone I took the freedom of cursing, well Romanian road conditions and those responsible for it. In the end already close to the next village I could'nt even push the bike since the rear tire was blocked by clay and grass.

Upon entering that village it took me another 15 minutes to find someone who would'nt just stare at me in disbelief when telling them that I came all the f...... way from Laposna but letting me rinse and clean the bike with a water hose, something not so easy to find in rural villages. When I was done I was all soaked myself and found a motel down the road at a modest price of just 4 EUR for a double with TV.

With no Internet and nothing to do I took to the village a did what you do when nothing to and waiting for the shoes to dry. I got a haircut, baught some postcards, called home and drank a beer at a pub.

The rest of the night was again watching Romanian and Hungarian TV. There are funny shows featuring really well-equipped blondes that made a career in Italian TV. The other extreme are shows on national TV showing old people all geared up in traditional costumes singing lip-sync to what seems to be also very traditional music. I'm not against retaining traditions and such but the way they show it on Romanian TV really takes the cake. It looks sort of like a sedative once invented to let people forget about the horrors of their daily lives.

Day20 (30.8.)

Carrying a hair-dryer is really worth the weight. All you do is plug it in for two hours watch Agassi play his last US Open and in the end the shoes are dry.

Today was the last day of climbing those Carpathians that hadn't really worried me all too much. It was 10kms of switchback roads and a little rain. The descent lead me through a nice gorge that seemed to be major touristic destination. Its always funny when coming along places with people standing around buying souvenirs not really knowing what they are doing. Well, I guess that is what they call leasure time.

For me it was hard work in the pouring rain on a road that was'nt steep but covered with the coarsest gravel they have putting the rolling drag at the highest level imaginable. When reaching Piatra Neamt I checked in to a small pension sleeping in the doormans room for still a lot of Euros compared to normal Romanian prices.

Day21 (31.8.)

Getting that cheap bed was under the precondition of leaving at six o'clock. I had a muesli with lots of sunflower seeds - a bad idea as it turned out later - and took off for what was supposed to be the final ride to the border. The road conditions where ideal. Smooth tarmac and strong tailwinds. By 1pm i had alread done 100kms. The only thing was that my stomach started really worrying me. I took an extended lunch break and tried again. Nope, instead I took to the fields along the road puking it all out. I still don't know what it was. I had some water from a roadside fountain that teasted really good. Anyway, bought some Coke and pretztel sticks and set up my tent just before the rain set in.

The night was long since I got to bed at 4pm and it was'nt really quiet for it was raining all night.

Day22 (1.9.)

Today I had a quick ride into Iasi. Sorted out some financial problems before headin into the unknown (Moldawia and Transdnistria in particular) and cooked some pasta in the city park. I'm going to ride the remaining 30kms to the border to be able to get an early start into Moldawia by tomorrow morning.

check out the new fotos from the Romanian countryside, the old ones you can find here (be aware that it starts with the most actual picture)